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I've been trying to repaint the woodwork in my house with Valspar satin latex (not the Signature brand paint, just the regular Valspar). I've tried to control the conditions in the house (It is usually 70 degrees), and I'm using Purdy brushes. I know that latex is not "good" when it comes to flow and workability, so I've even tried adding Floetrol to the paint. But nothing seems to help enough to get a decently smooth finish. It seems like this paint is near sludge quality. Is it just me or does this paint really perform poorly?
If you answer "yes, that paint is crappy", would you be daring enough to try to match the color with a different brand, or would you just tough it out?
> I've been trying to repaint the woodwork in my house with Valspar satin > latex (not the Signature brand paint, just the regular Valspar). I've > tried to control the conditions in the house (It is usually 70 > degrees), and I'm using Purdy brushes. I know that latex is not "good" > when it comes to flow and workability, so I've even tried adding > Floetrol to the paint. But nothing seems to help enough to get a > decently smooth finish. It seems like this paint is near sludge quality. > Is it just me or does this paint really perform poorly?
> If you answer "yes, that paint is crappy", would you be daring enough to > try to match the color with a different brand, or would you just tough > it out?
On Wed, 15 Mar 2006 15:36:44 -0500, Jean <J...@spam.not> scribbled this interesting note:
>I've been trying to repaint the woodwork in my house with Valspar satin >latex (not the Signature brand paint, just the regular Valspar). I've >tried to control the conditions in the house (It is usually 70 >degrees), and I'm using Purdy brushes. I know that latex is not "good" >when it comes to flow and workability, so I've even tried adding >Floetrol to the paint. But nothing seems to help enough to get a >decently smooth finish. It seems like this paint is near sludge quality. >Is it just me or does this paint really perform poorly?
>If you answer "yes, that paint is crappy", would you be daring enough to >try to match the color with a different brand, or would you just tough >it out?
>Jean
There are lots of discussions on this group about how to paint interior woodwork. Some say you can do a good job with good latex paint, others say you should only use an oil based enamel for interior woodwork. I prefer the oil based paint. You want a great end result? Buy great paint and be willing to put in a lot of time in the prep work. The finished product is entirely dependant upon the prep work and the quality of the materials, much like a fine meal!:~)
-- John Willis jdwillis2...@airmail.net (Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)
I just learned to tell a quality latex paint from a cheap paint is to rub it between your fingers. If it feels gritty it's a cheap paint. If it feels smooth its a good paint. A cheap paint uses clay and a more expensive paint uses titanium dioxide.
"John Willis" <jdwillis12...@airmail.net> wrote in message
> On Wed, 15 Mar 2006 15:36:44 -0500, Jean <J...@spam.not> scribbled > this interesting note:
>>I've been trying to repaint the woodwork in my house with Valspar satin >>latex (not the Signature brand paint, just the regular Valspar). I've >>tried to control the conditions in the house (It is usually 70 >>degrees), and I'm using Purdy brushes. I know that latex is not "good" >>when it comes to flow and workability, so I've even tried adding >>Floetrol to the paint. But nothing seems to help enough to get a >>decently smooth finish. It seems like this paint is near sludge quality. >>Is it just me or does this paint really perform poorly?
>>If you answer "yes, that paint is crappy", would you be daring enough to >>try to match the color with a different brand, or would you just tough >>it out?
>>Jean
> There are lots of discussions on this group about how to paint > interior woodwork. Some say you can do a good job with good latex > paint, others say you should only use an oil based enamel for interior > woodwork. I prefer the oil based paint. You want a great end result? > Buy great paint and be willing to put in a lot of time in the prep > work. The finished product is entirely dependant upon the prep work > and the quality of the materials, much like a fine meal!:~)
> -- > John Willis > jdwillis2...@airmail.net > (Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)
R & S wrote: > I just learned to tell a quality latex paint from a cheap paint is to rub it > between your fingers. If it feels gritty it's a cheap paint. If it feels > smooth its a good paint. A cheap paint uses clay and a more expensive paint > uses titanium dioxide.
I had never heard about that test. Thanks for the tip.
> chuck it buy a name brand .CIL >> I've been trying to repaint the woodwork in my house with Valspar satin >> latex (not the Signature brand paint, just the regular Valspar). I've >> tried to control the conditions in the house (It is usually 70 >> degrees), and I'm using Purdy brushes. I know that latex is not "good" >> when it comes to flow and workability, so I've even tried adding >> Floetrol to the paint. But nothing seems to help enough to get a >> decently smooth finish. It seems like this paint is near sludge quality. >> Is it just me or does this paint really perform poorly?
>> If you answer "yes, that paint is crappy", would you be daring enough to >> try to match the color with a different brand, or would you just tough >> it out?
3rd eye wrote: > On Thu, 16 Mar 2006 11:48:59 -0500, Jean <J...@spam.not> wrote:
>>R & S wrote:
>>>I just learned to tell a quality latex paint from a cheap paint is to rub it >>>between your fingers. If it feels gritty it's a cheap paint. If it feels >>>smooth its a good paint. A cheap paint uses clay and a more expensive paint >>>uses titanium dioxide.
>>I had never heard about that test. Thanks for the tip.
In article <121lob3cn2kh...@corp.supernews.com>, Jean <J...@spam.not> wrote: >3rd eye wrote: >> On Thu, 16 Mar 2006 11:48:59 -0500, Jean <J...@spam.not> wrote:
>>>R & S wrote:
>>>>I just learned to tell a quality latex paint from a cheap paint is to rub it
>>>>between your fingers. If it feels gritty it's a cheap paint. If it feels >>>>smooth its a good paint. A cheap paint uses clay and a more expensive paint >>>>uses titanium dioxide.
>>>I had never heard about that test. Thanks for the tip.
>> One more tip for you.
>> Don't believe everything you read here.
>Which means what?
Which means that this supposed "test" is BS. Even cheap paint feels smooth between the fingers.
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
