El grupo al cual envías entradas es un grupo Usenet. Si envías mensajes a este grupo, cualquier usuario de Internet podrá ver tu dirección de correo electrónico
And the proper ones properly prepared and applied also for filling porous grain in woods like oak to help prevent excessive stain takeup if the stark contrast isn't the desired effect.
On Sat, 07 Nov 2009 12:15:27 -0600, dpb <n...@non.net> wrote: >norm...@earthlink.net wrote: >... >> A wood filler is for filling defects.
>And the proper ones properly prepared and applied also for filling >porous grain in woods like oak to help prevent excessive stain takeup if >the stark contrast isn't the desired effect.
Pardon me for jumping in, the main reason I see usually stated is to get a smoother surface, since the filled pores will not have "divots" after the topcoat is applied. Sometimes people will actually tint the filler to enhance the contrast. Not me, though.
>>>> What about using a wood filler that is supposed to reduce stain >>>> absorbtion and reduce blotchiness? >>> I'll have to test that out. I assume you mean a wood sealer, but >>> I'll try it.
>> He said wood *FILLER*. One would assume that is what he means. Paste >> wood filler.
>> A sealer - a different thing - might help depending on what it is.
dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
>>>>> What about using a wood filler that is supposed to reduce stain >>>>> absorbtion and reduce blotchiness? >>>> I'll have to test that out. I assume you mean a wood sealer, but >>>> I'll try it. >>> He said wood *FILLER*. One would assume that is what he means. Paste >>> wood filler.
>>> A sealer - a different thing - might help depending on what it is.
I've used wood filler to fill in rotted wood storm window frames. Tried it on furniture, but the oak furniture I tried it on really didn't need it....the finish, in two or three coats, filled the grain just fine. The OP sounds like a relative newby, and getting wood filler in the right color for an entire floor is not, IMO, a task for a newby.
>>>>>> What about using a wood filler that is supposed to reduce stain >>>>>> absorbtion and reduce blotchiness? >>>>> I'll have to test that out. I assume you mean a wood sealer, but >>>>> I'll try it. >>>> He said wood *FILLER*. One would assume that is what he means. >>>> Paste wood filler.
>>>> A sealer - a different thing - might help depending on what it is.
> I've used wood filler to fill in rotted wood storm window frames.
Uhhh...OK. Didn't work very well, did it?
> Tried it on furniture, but the oak furniture I tried it on really > didn't need it....the finish, in two or three coats, filled the grain > just fine. The OP sounds like a relative newby, and getting wood > filler in the right color for an entire floor is not, IMO, a task for > a newby.
--
dadiOH ____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
>>>>>>> What about using a wood filler that is supposed to reduce stain >>>>>>> absorbtion and reduce blotchiness? >>>>>> I'll have to test that out. I assume you mean a wood sealer, but >>>>>> I'll try it. >>>>> He said wood *FILLER*. One would assume that is what he means. >>>>> Paste wood filler.
>>>>> A sealer - a different thing - might help depending on what it is.
>> I've used wood filler to fill in rotted wood storm window frames.
> Uhhh...OK. Didn't work very well, did it?
Not the same kind used for furniture, I'm sure, but it served the purpose. My daughter has a nice little bungalow and it was obvious the storms hadn't been used for years....standing on garage floor, the bottoms of the worst ones had rotted away to the extent they were just ragged along bottom edges. I stripped old alligatored paint from exterior trim for most of the regular windows and repainted. Recaulked around windows, of course. When it came time to consider the storms, I figured that with careful handling the filler would make them fit well enough to keep the weather out of the house :o) Slapped on the wood filler, repainted, reglazed some and put them up. My daughter replaced all of her windows last year, and the storms were probably still up :o)
>> Tried it on furniture, but the oak furniture I tried it on really >> didn't need it....the finish, in two or three coats, filled the grain >> just fine. The OP sounds like a relative newby, and getting wood >> filler in the right color for an entire floor is not, IMO, a task for >> a newby.
> I now have a new unfinished red oakhardwoodfloor installed in an apartment > that I will be renting out.
> What I want is a truly *CLEAR* finish to put down on the new unfinishedflooring.
> I have extraflooringthat I have set up so I can test various finishes. I > have already tested a number of stains and, if I have to, I will go with one > of those. But, what I really want is to be able to put a completely clear > finish over the new unfinishedhardwoodflooring. I like the way it looks > now and I would like to be able to keep that look and coloration. All of > the so-called "clear" polyurethane finishes I have tried so far are not > really clear. They are amber color, and they also stain and darken the wood > grain.
> Here are my two questions:
> 1) I am interested in clear Moisture Cure Urethane (one brand is made by > Garco) -- but I can't find anywhere to buy it. It is supposed to be truly > clear. I know it is super volatile and maybe that's why it is not easily > available. I can apparently buy it online, but then I have to wait 4 to 14 > days for it to arrive. Does anyone know where I can go in person and buy > this stuff? I am in New Jersey near Philadelphia, PA.
> 2) I haven't tested out water-based polyurethane products yet. I get the > impression that they can be more clear than oil-based polyurethane. MinWax > sells a clear water-based base coat and a clear water-based polyurethane > that goes over the base coat. The clear base coat is supposed to seal the > tannins (or something like that) in the wood so it doesn't darken, and then > hopefully the top coat won't darken the wood when it is applied.
> Are water-based polyurethane finishes okay forhardwoodfloors? Are they > durable enough compared to oil-based polyurethanes? Are there any special > cleaning requirements or instructions for water-based finishes that are > different than for oil-based polyurethane finishes?
> Can I later cover a water-based polyurethane finish with an oil-basedhttp > polyurethane finish? I think the answer to that one is "no", but I thought > I would ask anyway.
